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    Voltage Concepts of Tactical Lamps and Lithium cells
    ²Ä¤»³¹  ±j¥ú¿Oªw¤Î¾Y¹q¦Àªº¹qÀ£·§©À

    if your getting 8.4Volts on a fresh charge and ur not giving the full 9V you obviouslly lose some lumens and power right ? what would you be getting with those 20mins in aprox. lumens? or would you get the full 320lumens?
    °²¦p§Aªº¹q¦À¬O8.4V¡A§A¨S¦³´£¨Ñ¨¬°÷ªº9V¹q¤O¡A§A«Ü©úÅ㪺·|¥¢¥h¤@¨Ç¤â¹qµ©ªº«G«×¡A¹ï§a¡H¦b¤â¹qµ©¹B§@ªº20¤ÀÄÁ¡A«G«×¬ù¬O¦h¤Ö¬y©ú¡H©ÎªÌ»¡§A¯à±o¨ì³Ì¤j320¬y©úªº«G«×¶Ü¡H

    Let me begin by saying- if you took a 9V tactical lamp assembly, made by Surefire, LemensFactory, anybody.... doesn't matter, and put it on a bench power supply and set it to 9V at the bulb, it would not last very long at all. Especially the high power ones like the EO-9 and P91, which would probably instaflash at 9V. The HO-9 might last a few minutes to an hour if your lucky. The lower power bulbs might last a little while, the very lower output bulbs (less than an amp) would probably work fine on 9V...
    ¤@¶}©l¡AÅý§Ú³o¼Ë»¡¦n¤F¡A°²³]§A®³¤@Áû9Vªº±j¥ú¿Oªw¼Ò²Õ¡A¤£ºÞ¬OSurefireªº¤]¦n¡BLumensfactoryªº¤]¦n¡K¥ô¦ó¨ä¥L¼tµPªº³£¦n¡A§â¥¦¸Ë¶i¤@²Õ¹q¦À²Õ¤§¤¤¡A§â¿Oªw³]©w¦b9V¡A¥¦¦A³o»ò¼Ë¤]µLªkÂI«G«Üªøªº®É¶¡¡C¤×¨ä¬O¨º¨Ç°ª«G«×ªº¿Oªw¹³¬OEO-9¥H¤ÎP91¡A¤j·§¥u¯à«G¤@¤U¤U¡CHO-9¤j·§¯à«ùÄò´X¤ÀÄÁ¡A¦pªG§A°÷©¯¹Bªº¸Ü¡A©Î³\1­Ó¤p®É¡C¸û§C«G«×ªº¿Oªw¥i¯à¥i¥H«ùÄò¤[¤@ÂI¡A«D±`§C«G«×ªº¿Oªw¡]¤Ö©ó1amp¡^¤j¬ù¯à¦b9V¹qÀ£¤U¡A¤u§@±o«Ü¦n¡C

    Now.. here's why. This is hard to follow because it's one of those double reverse things where it is the way it is because of the way something it is this way..bleh.. I'll try....
    ²{¦b¡K§Ú­n¸ÑÄÀ¬°¤°»ò·|³o¼Ë¡C³o«ÜÃø»¡°_¡A¦]¬°³o¬O­ÓÂù­«¥æ¿ùªº¨Æ±¡¡A¬°¤°»ò·|¬O³o¼Ë¡A¨º´N¬O¦]¬°¥¦´N¬O¨º¼Ë¡K®¦¡K§Ú·|¸ÕµÛ±N¨Æ±¡¸ÑÄÀ²M·¡¡C

    CR123A primary cells, when BRAND new, fresh out of the box, measure about 3.2V per cell. However. When you put a load on them, that voltage does not stay 3.2. This is the case with ALL batteries. They have an open circuit voltage, and they have a working voltage. Depending on how much you demand from the cell (in amps) will determine how much variation there is between open circuit voltage and working voltage... Please Refer to Silverfoxes charts of CR123A discharge characteristics here http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...ad.php?t=67078
    You will see that at 1 Amp, most cells almost immediately sag to 2.5V.
    CR123A¤@¦¸©Ê¾Y¹q¦À¡A·í¬O­è­è±q²°¤lùØ®³¥X¨Ó¡A¥þ·sªº®É­Ô¡A´ú¶q¹qÀ£¬ù¬O¤@Áû3.2V¡CµM¦Ó¡A·í§A§â¥¦¥á¨ì¤â¹qµ©ùØ­±¨Ï¥Î¡A¨Ï¥¦©Ó¨ü¤u§@­t²üªº®É­Ô¡A¹qÀ£¨Ã¤£·|ºû«ù¦b3.2V¡C³o¬O©Ò¦³¹q¦À³£¤@¼Ëªºª¬ªp¡C¨Ì·Ó§A­n±q¹q¦ÀùØ­±º^¥Xªº¹q¤O¤£¦P¡]amps¡^¡A±N·|¨M©w¹q¦Àªº¶}©ñ¹q¸ô¹qÀ£¤Î¤u§@¹qÀ£¶¡ªº®t¶Z¡C½Ð§A°Ñ·ÓSilverfoxªºCR123A©ñ¹q¯S©Êªí¡G
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...ad.php?t=67078
§A±N·|¬Ý¨ì¡A¦b¿é¥X1Amp¹q¤Oªº®É­Ô¡A¤j³¡¥÷ªº¹q¦À¹qÀ£·|¥ß¨è¤U­°¨ì2.5V¡C

    Now, most standard 9V lamps are from 1.1-1.3 Amp. The HO-9 is about 1.5Amp. At 1.5Amp we can expect the average CR123A cell to sag to about 2.4V within a few seconds of being fresh. 3X2.4V=7.2V
    ²{¦b¡A¤j³¡¥÷¼Ð·Çªº9V¿Oªw¡A·|®ø¯Ó1.1-1.3ampªº¹q¤O¡CHO-9¤j¬ù®ø¯Ó1.5amp¡C¦b1.5ampªº¹q¤O®ø¯Óªº±¡ªp¤U¡A§Ú­Ì¥i¥H¹w´úCR123A¹q¦Àªº¹qÀ£¡A·|¦b¶}©l¨Ï¥Î«áªº´X¬íÄÁ¥H¤º¡A¥­§¡¨Ó»¡·|¤U­°¨ì2.4V¡C¦pªG¥Îªº¬O3Áû¹q¦Àªº¸Ü¡AÁ`¹qÀ£¬O3X2.4V=7.2V¡C

    So.. when designing high power tactical lamps, they take this into consideration.. They need the lamp to be able to survive that initial high-voltage spike of the first few seconds, but they try to make the bulb in such a way that it will run strong and bright far below 9V, because in reality, the bulb will rarely if ever actually get 9V after the voltage sag of the batteries under a load.
    ¦]¦¹¡A¦b³]­p±j¥ú¿Oªwªº®É­Ô¡A¼t°Ó´N¦³§â³o¤@ÂI¯Ç¤J¦Ò¶q¡C¥L­Ì»Ý­n¿Oªw¯à°÷©Ó¨ü­è¶}©l¨Ï¥Î«e´X¬íªº¹qÀ£峯­È¡A¦ý¬O¤S¥²»Ý¨Ï¿Oªw¦b»·§C©ó9Vªº¹qÀ£­È¤U¡A¥¿±`ªº§ë®g¥X±j¥ú¡A¦]¬°¦b²{¹ê¤¤¡A¿Oªw¦b¹q¦À¤u§@­t¸üªº±¡ªp¤U¡A®Ú¥»µLªk´£¨Ñ¨¬°÷ªº9V¹qÀ£¡C

    Take a look under "lamp specifications" at this page: http://www.lumensfactory.com/specifications
    you'll see they have designed the target voltage for 9V lamp to be 7.6V. smart eh?
    ¬Ý¤@¤U³o­Óºô§}ªº¡u¿Oªw©Ê¯à¡vªí¡G
http://www.lumensfactory.com/specifications
§A±N·|¬Ý¨ì9V¿Oªwªº¤u§@¹qÀ£¡A¬O³Q³]©w¦b7.6V¡AÁo©ú§a¡H

    Also take note of the EO-9, which is a 7.2V lamp... this is because it draws 2.0amps and sags the voltage of the cells down even further. they took this into consideration when designing this lamp, by doing so, it is brighter and whiter off of the cells it was intended to be used with.
    ¤]¬Ý¤@¤UEO-09¡A¨ä¹ê¬OÁû7.2Vªº¿Oªw¡K³o¬O¦]¬°¥¦¦Y2.0ampªº¹q¶q¡A·|§â¹q¦Àªº¹qÀ£§ó©¹¤U©Ô¡C¥L­Ì¦b³]­p¿Oªwªº®É­Ô´N¦³§â³oºØ±¡§Î¦Ò¶q¦b¤º¡A³o»ò°µ¡A´N¥i¦b¹q¦À¤u§@­t¸üªº½d³ò¤º¡A¨Ï¿Oªwµo¥X§ó¥Õ¡B§ó«Gªº¥ú½u¡C
²Ä¤»³¹  ²Ä¤G³¡¥÷

    Now... Here's the deal withe Li-Ion
²{¦b½ü¨ì¥i¥R¹q¦¡¾Y¹q¦Àªºª¬ªp¡C
.
    Yes they do only come off the charger at 4.2V (8.4V total for a pair in series). But as you can see above, the fresh voltage of a cell says very little about the way it works under a load. GENERALLY speaking, Lithium Ion cells suffer from less voltage sag than Lithium Primaries. As a result of this, the ideal voltage range for running a 9V tactical lamp is reached without a problem. Now.... Ordinarily speaking. The ideal setup is to use a 3 cell light like the C3 or 9P or something. This way you can use larger cells. For example. A pair of 17500 size cells are a direct replacement for a set of 3 CR123s. The larger higher capacity cells will also perform as well or better than the original configuration of 3 CR123s.. When you step down a "notch" in size and try to run powerful 9V lamp assemblies off of small RCR123 cells, depending on the cell, you do loose a little bit of performance and a lot of runtime trying to get so much out of so little... but if compact size and bright are important, then we make these sacrifices. As far as real world use goes, you wouldn't be able to tell much different between a HO-9 on a pair of RCR123s to a HO-9 on 3 CR123s... in fact, it's hard to distinguish the difference between LFs HO-9 and EO-9. The human eye just isn't a very good light meter. On a pair of BIG Li-Ion cells like 17670s, the HO-9 runs at about 1.6Amp. On the small RCR123s, it runs closer to 1.5Amp.... So a bigger set of cells will run a little brighter, but you can't see much difference. For long runtime, many people are using "4 cell" sized bodies (length of 4 CR123A cells) that are bored to accept 18mm diameter cells... a pair of 18650s gives about 2200mAh capacity instead of the ~550mAh you get from a pair of RCR123s, So they can drive even more powerful lamps, or run the regular ones much longer. But at the sacrifice of space... [WOLF-EYES and PILA brand lights come from the factory with 18mm diameter cells in mind, no boring neccessary, if you are new to the world of Li-Ion, you would do yourself a great favor to start with one of these brands, being able to support the extra mm diameter cell, adds about 30-50% capacity and current capability to your configuration, you can also piece together a Surfire Style Light using many of the available Surefire heads, bezels, tailcaps, and lamps, in conjunction with Leef or FM bodies sold at Lighthound. The result is Surefire Like quality with support for 18mm cells. this is generally the most expensive, but also the most rewarding, and adaptable option available.]
¬Oªº¡A¥i¥R¹q¦¡¾Y¹q¦À¥u¦³¦b¥¦­Ì­è±q¥R¹q¾¹¤W®³¤U¨Óªº®É­Ô¡A¹qÀ£¬O4.2V¡]¦êÁp2Áû¬O8.4V¡^¡C¦ý¬O´N¦p¦P§A¦b¤W­±¬Ý¨ìªº¡A¹q¦À©Ò¼Ð¥Üªº¹qÀ£¡A¸ò¹ê»Ú¤W¦³¤u§@­t¸üªº¤u§@¹qÀ£¬O¤£¦Pªº¡C¤@¯ë¦Ó¨¥¡A¥i¥R¹q¦¡¾Y¹q¦À¦b¦³¤u§@­t¸ü®É¡A¥¦ªº¹qÀ£¤U­°ªº­È¡A¸û¤@¦¸©Ê¾Y¹qÁÙ­n¤p¡C¦]¦¹¡A­n¹F¨ìÅX°Ê9V±j¥ú¿Oªwªº²z·Q¹qÀ£½d³ò¸û¨S¦³¤°»ò°ÝÃD¡C²{¦b¡A¤@¯ë¨Ó»¡¡A¤ñ¸û²z·Qªº²Õ¦X¬O±Ä¥Î1¤ä¹³¬OC3¡B9P©Î¬O¨ä¥L¨Ï¥Î3Áû¹q¦Àªº¤â¹qµ©¡C³o»ò°µ¡A§A¥i¥H¨Ï¥Î¸û¤jÁûªº¹q¦À¡CÁ|¨Ò¦Ó¨¥¡A2Áû17500¹q¦À´N¥i¥Hª½±µ¨ú¥N3ÁûCR123¡C¸û¤jÁû¡A¸û¤j¹q¶qªº¹q¦À¡A¤u§@ªí²{¤]·|¤ñ­ì¨Óªº3ÁûCR123ÁÙ­n§ó¦n¡A¦Ü¤Ö®Ä¯à¤£·|¸û®t¡C·í§AÀ|¸Õ¨Ï¥Î¸û¤pÁûªºRCR123¹q¦À¨ÓÅX°Ê±j¤Oªº9V¿Oªw¼Ò²Õ¡Aµø¨Ï¥Îªº¹q¦À¤£¦P¡A§A±N·|·l¥¢¤@¨Ç®Ä¯à¡A§Î¦P®ö¶O®É¶¡¦b°µµL¯qªº¨Æ¡C¦ý¬O¡A°²¦p¤p¤Ø¤oªº¤â¹qµ©¤Î±j¤Oªº¥ú·½¬O­«­nªº¡A¨º¤]¥u¦n°µ¥X¤@¨ÇÄ묹¡A±Ä¥Î³oºØ³]©w¡C¦ý¦b²{¹ê¥@¬Éªº¨Ï¥ÎÀô¹Ò¤¤¡A§AÀ³¸Ó¨S¦³¿ìªk¤À¿ë¥Î2ÁûRCR123¤Î¥Î3ÁûCR123¹q¦À¡A¨ÓÅX°ÊHO-9¿Oªw¼Ò²Õ³o2ºØ³]©w¤§¶¡¡A¨ì©³¦³¤°»ò¤£¦P¡C¨Æ¹ê¤W¡A­n¤À¿ëLFs HO-9¤ÎEO-9¶¡ªº®t²§¡A¥»¨Ó´N«ÜÃø¡C¤H²´¨Ã¤£¬O«Ü¦nªº¥ú«×­p¡CHO-9·f°t2Áû¤j«¬ªº¥i¥R¹q¾Y¹q¦À¹³¬O17760¡A·|¯Ó·l¤j¬ù1.6Ampªº¹q¶q¡C·f°t¤pÁûªºRCR123ªº¸Ü¡A«h¤j·§¬O1.5Amp¡C©Ò¥Î¨Ï¥Î¸û¤jÁûªº¹q¦À·|µy·L«G¤@ÂI¡A¦ý¬O§A¨S¦³¿ìªk¬Ý¥X¥¦­Ìªº®t§O¡C¬°¤F­n©µªø¨Ï¥Îªº®É¶¡¡A«Ü¦h¤H·|±Ä¥Î4­Ó¹q¦À¤Ø¤oªø«×ªºµ©¨­¡]4ÁûCR123Aªºªø«×¡^¡A¨Ã¥B§â¥¦ÂXµ©¨ì¨¬¥H®e¯Ç18mmª½®|ªº¹q¦À¡C2­Ó18650¹q¦À¤j·§´N¦³2200mahªº¹q¶q¡A¦pªG¨Ï¥Î2ÁûRCR123´N¥u¦³550mah¡A©Ò¥H¥L­Ì¥i¥HÅX°Ê§ó¥[±j¤Oªº¿Oªw¡A©ÎªÌ¨Ï¤@¯ë±`³Wªº¿Oªw¨Ï¥Î§ó¤[ªº®É¶¡¡C¦ý¬O¡A©Ò»Ý­n¥I¥XªºÄ묹´N¬OªÅ¶¡¡CWOLF-EYES¸òPILA³o2­Ó«~µPªº¤â¹qµ©¡A¦b¥Í²£ªº®É­Ô¡A´N¦³¦Ò¶q¨ì¥i¥H®e¯Ç18mmª½®|ªº¹q¦À¡A¥L­Ì¨Ã¤£»Ý­nÂXµ©¡A°²¦p§A­è±µÄ²¥i¥R¹q¦¡¾Y¹q¦Àªº¥@¬É¡A±q³o2­Ó«~µPªº¤â¹qµ©¶}©l¶R¡A¥i¥H¬°¦Û¤v¬Ù¤U«Ü¦hªº³Â·Ð¡A¥¦­Ì¥i¥HÅý§A¨Ï¥Î§ó¤jª½®|ªº¹q¦À¡A¬°§Aªº¤â¹qµ©²Õ¦X¼W¥[30-50%ªº¹q®e¶q¤Î®Ä¯à¡C·íµM§A¤]¥i¥H¨Ï¥ÎSurefireªº¿OÀY¡BÀ£Àô¡B§À»\¡B¿Oªw¼Ò²Õ©Î¬O¨Ï¥Î¦bLighthound§ä¨ìLeef©Î¬OFMªºµ©¨­¨Ó«÷¥X¤@¤äSurefire­·®æªº¤â¹qµ©¡Cµ²ªG´N¥i¥H±o¨ì¤@¤ä¥i¨Ï¥Î18mm¹q¦À¡A«~½è¤S»PSurefire¬Ûªñªº¤â¹qµ©¡C³o©¹©¹¬O³Ì¶Qªº²Õ¦X¡A¦ý¤]¬O³Ì­È±o¤]³Ì¦³¼u©Êªº²Õ¦X¡C

    It's important to note that rechargeable cells are often rated differently than primary cells. Specifically, most primary cells are rated at their "fresh" open-circuit voltage output, while most rechargeable cells are rated at their "nominal" or average output into a load. So a CR123 primary is rated 3.0V, but in reality, under a load, it is usually around 2.25V-2.75V depending on how demanding the load. A Li-Ion cell is rated 3.7V, but in reality, it actually HOLDS 3.7V or higher into most loads. [food for thought time]:The same holds true in comparing Alkaline primary cells to rechargeable NIMH cells. In reality, even thought the NIMH is only rated 1.2V, it will often hold a higher voltage through most of a discharge than it's "1.5V" Alkaline cousin.
    ¤F¸Ñ¥i¥R¹q¦¡¾Y¹q¦À¤Î¤@¦¸©Ê¾Y¹q¦À¤W¼Ð¥Üªº¼Æ¾Ú¬O¤£¤@¼Ëªº¤]¬O­«­nªº¡C¤j³¡¥÷ªº¤@¦¸©Ê¾Y¹q¦À¬O¼Ð¥Ü¥¦­è¥X¼t¡A¦bµL¤u§@­t²ü¤Uªº¿é¥X¹qÀ£­È¡F¦Ó¤j¦h¼Æªº¥i¥R¹q¦¡¾Y¹q¦À¬O¼Ð¥Ü¥¦­Ìªº¡u©x¤è¡v¼Æ¾Ú©Î¬O¦b¦³¤u§@­t²ü¤Uªº¥­§¡¹qÀ£­È¡C©Ò¥HCR123¤@¦¸©Ê¾Y¹q¦À©Ò¼Ð¥Üªº¼Æ¾Ú¬O3.0V¡A¦ý¨Æ¹ê¤W¡A¦b¦³¤u§@­t²üªº±¡ªp¤U¡A¨Ì·Ó¥¦­Ì¤u§@­t²üªº¤£¦P¡A¥¦­Ìªº¹qÀ£­È¤j·§¦b2.25-2.75V¤§¶¡¡C¥i¥R¹q¦¡¾Y¹q¦À¼Ð¥Ü3.7V¡A¦ý¨Æ¹ê¤W¡A¥¦ªº½T¥i¥H¦b¤j¦h¼Æªº¤u§@­t²ü±¡ªp¤U¡Aºû«ù3.7V©ÎªÌ¬O§ó°ªªº¹qÀ£­È¡C¡e¶i¤@¨B«ä¦Ò®É¶¡¡f¦b¤ñ¸ûÆP©Ê¹q¦À¤Î¥i¥R¹q¦¡Âì²B¹q¦Àªº®É­Ô¡A³oºØª¬ªp¤]¬O¤@¼Ëªº¡A¦³¨ÇÂì²B¹q¦À¬Æ¦Ü¼Ð¥Ü1.2V¡A¦ý¦b¥¦¤u§@©ñ¹qªº¹Lµ{¤¤¡A¤j¦h¼Æªº®É¶¡¡A³£¤ñ¥¦ªº1.5VÆP©Ê¹q¦Àªí¿Ë¡Aºû«ù§ó°ªªº¹qÀ£­È¡C
More cell safety concepts "Cs"
    ²Ä¤C³¹  §ó¦h¹q¦À¦w¥þªº·§©À¡uC«Y¼Æ¡v

    "Most of these cells are designed to be used up to a 2C current draw, no more " what do you mean by this ?
¡u³o¨Ç¹q¦À¤j³¡¥÷³£³Q³]­p¨Ó¨Ï¥Î2C¹q¬y¿é¥X¡A¤£­n¶W¹L¡C¡v§A³o»ò»¡¬O¤°»ò·N«ä¡H

    The "C" rating is the multiplier to discover the maximum safe discharge and charge characteristics.. I mentioned those characteristics above... Now I'll explain further..
    ¡uC¡v«Y¼Æ¬O±oª¾¹q¦Àªº¦w¥þ¥R¹q¤Î©ñ¹q¯S©Ê¡]µù16¡^ªº¤@­Ó­¼¼Æ¡C§Ú¤w¸g¦b«e­±ªº¤å³¹¤º´£¹L¨º¨Ç¯S©Ê¡C²{¦b§Ú·|§ó¶i¤@¨Bªº¸ÑÄÀ¡C
µù16  ³oùØ«ü³æ¦ì®É¶¡¤º¹q¬yªº¥R¹q¤Î©ñ¹q¶q¡C
   
It's quite simple really: easiest thing for me to do is give examples:
    cell 1 example:
    18500 sized Li-Ion Cell
    1500mAh capacity
    2C max discharge
    1C max charge
    take the "2" before the C for max discharge and multiply by the mAh capacity rating of the cell. 2x1500=3000mA max discharge. or 3Amps. same for charge, 1x1500=1500, this cell can be charged at 1.5Amps, no more..
    ³o¨ä¹ê«D±`²³æ¡A§Ú­Ì´NÁ|¨Ò¤l¨Ó»¡¡G
    ¹q¦À®×¨Ò1¡G
    18500 ¥i¥R¹q¦¡¾Y¹q¦À
    1500mAh ¹q®e¶q
    2C ³Ì¤j©ñ¹q
    1C ³Ì¤j¥R¹q
    §â¥Nªí³Ì¤j©ñ¹q¨º¤@¶µ¡AC«Y¼Æ«e­±ªº¼Æ¦r¡u2¡v¡A­¼¥H¹q¦Àªº¹q®e¶q¡u1500mah¡v¡C2¡Ñ1500=3000ma ³Ì¤j©ñ¶q¡A©ÎªÌ¬O3amps¡C¹ï¥R¹q¨Ó»¡¤]¬O¤@¼Ëªº¡A1¡Ñ1500=1500¡A³oÁû¹q¦À¥i¥H1.5ampsªº¹q¶q¥R¹q¡A¤£­n¶W¹L¡K

    cell 2 example:
    26650 size Li-Poly<-
    3100mAh capacity
    10C max discharge
    4C max charge
    Take "10" X 3100 = 31,000mA max discharge... 31 Amps. wow! (some Polymer cells can do this... RC guys use stuff like this)
    "4"Cx3100mAh = 12.4Amp max charge rate... This cell could be safely charged from dead to full in about 15 minutes without damage.
    ¹q¦À®×¨Ò2¡G
    26650 ¾Y»E¦Xª«¹q¦À<-
    3100mAh ¹q®e¶q
    10C ³Ì¤j©ñ¹q
    4C ³Ì¤j¥R¹q
    ®³¡u10¡v­¼¥H3100µ¥©ó31000maªº³Ì¤j©ñ¹q¶q¡K31amps¡A«z¾¾¡I¡]¦³¨Ç»E¦Xª«¹q¦À¥i¥H°µ±o¨ì¡KRCguys¡]µù17¡^´N·|¨Ï¥Î¹³³o¼Ëªºª±·N¨à¡^¡C
    ¡u4¡vC­¼¥H3100mahµ¥©ó12.4ampsªº³Ì¤j¥R¹q¶q¡C³oÁû¹q¦À±q°®¨ì¥R¹¡¡A¥u­n¥R15¤ÀÄÁ¡A¬J¤£·|·lÃa¹q¦À¡A¤S«Ü¦w¥þ¡C
µù17 RC guys½Ð­ì½ÌĶªÌ¤~²¨¾Ç²L¡A¹ê¦b·d¤£²M·¡³o¬O¦bª±¤°»òªF¦èªº¤H¡Aªì¨B±ÀÂ_¡A¥i¯à¬O«ü¡uª±»»±±­¸¾÷ªº¤H¡v¡ARC¤]¥NªíµÛ¥H¤UªºÁY¼g¡GRed Cross ¬õ¤Q¦r·|¡BResearch Centre ¬ã¨s¤¤¤ß¡BReserve Corps «á³Æ³¡¶¤¡BRoman Catholic ¤Ñ¥D±Ð®{¡K³o¬O©_¼¯¦r¨å»¡ªº¡C

    Ratings like this are given to all sorts of batteries... You just take the C rating and multiply by capacity to find out the maximum current allowed for that function..
    ©Ò¦³¹q¦À³£¦³¹³³o¼Ëªº¼Ð¥Ü¡C§A¥u»Ý­n§âC«Y¼Æ­¼¤W¹q¦Àªº®e¶q¡A§A´N¥i¥H§ä¥X¹q¦À¥i®e³\ªº³Ì¤j©Î³Ì§C©ñ¹q¶q¡C

    There are some batteries specifically designed for the safe delivery of up to a hundred amps or more.
    ¦³¤@¨Ç¹q¦À³Q¯S§O³]­p¨Ó°µ¼Æ¦Ê¦w°ö¬Æ¦Ü¶W¹Lªº¦w¥þ©ñ¹q¡C

    Unfortunately, The LiCo cells we use, aren't so advanced just yet. Most of the Li-Ion cells we are using are rated between 1.5 and 2C...
    «Ü¤£©¯ªº¡A§Ú­Ì©Ò¨Ï¥Îªº¥R¹q¦¡¹q¦ÀÁÙ¨S¦³¨º»ò¥ý¶i¡C¤j¦h¼Æ§Ú­Ì¦b¨Ï¥Îªº¥R¹q¦¡¹q¦À³£¬O¼Ð¥Ü¦b1.5¤Î2C¤§¶¡¡C

    It has been recently brought to my attention by Silverfox, that the cell manufactures, and the cell labelers, may not really be "in agreement" when rating cells. Until I can gather more information on this, consider configurations with an estimated runtime of less than 30 minutes, to be pushing cells "beyond 2C."Something that the original cell manufacture would not have recommended. So if the maximum discharge rate is 2C, it only means "capacity x 2" IF the cell holds it's rated capacity at that load. Most cells do not deliver their rated capacity into high loads, so it's important to re-calculate the maximum safe discharge rate based on the typical capacity of a cell into a particular load. See safety/use section above for further information. The cells that this issue seems to be MOST PREVALENT for are the RCR123 size cells, which seem to come with the most inflated capacity ratings. (by as much as 75% or more in some cases, which can lead people to believe they have a much higher safe discharge rate then they do in reality) Most larger format cells sold by AW/WE/Pila are very close to their rated capacity and can be used pretty close to a discharge rate that is double the rated capacity. (A 1.5 or 1.6AH 17670 should handle a ~3 amp load pretty safely).
Silverfox³Ìªñ¸ò§Ú»¡¤F¤@¨Ç§Ú«Ü·P¿³½ìªº¨Æ¡A¹q¦À»s³y°Ó¤Î¹q¦À¬ãµo¤H­û¡A¹ï©ó¦p¦ó¼Ð¥Ü¹q¦Àªº½Ñ¤¸¨Ã¨S¦³¯u¥¿§Î¦¨¦@ÃÑ¡C¦b§Ú¥i¥H¦b¦¹±o¨ì§ó¦h¸ê°T¤§«e¡AÁ`¬O»{¬°¦b¤Ö©ó30¤ÀÄÁªº®É¶¡¤º¡A±N¹q¦À·c°®¡A¬OÅý¹q¦À¡u¶W¹L2C¡vªº¤u§@­t²ü¡C³o¬O¹q¦À»s³y°Ó¤£·|«Øij°µªº¨Æ¡C©Ò¥H¦pªG¹q¦Àªº³Ì¤j©ñ¹q¦w¥þ«Y¼Æ¬O2C¡A¨º¥u·N¨ýµÛ¡u®e¶q¡Ñ2¡v¡A³o¬O°²³]¹q¦À¦b¨º¼Ëªº¤u§@­t¾á¡AÁÙ¯àºû«ù¥¦©Ò¼Ð¥Üªº®Ä¯àªº±¡ªp¤U¤~¦¨¥ß¡C¤j³¡¥÷ªº¹q¦À¡A¦b°ª¤u§@­t²üªº®É­Ô¡A¨ÃµLªk¿é¥X¥¦©Ò¼Ð¥Üªº¹q¶q¡A¦]¦¹¡A®Ú¾Ú¹q¦À¦b¯S®í¤u§@­t²üªº±¡ªp¤Uªº¹q¶q¿é¥X¡A¨Ó­«·s­pºâ¹q¦Àªº¦w¥þ©ñ¹q¶q´N«Ü­«­n¡C½Ð¬ãŪ¥»«ü«n²Ä¥|³¹¹q¦Àªº¦w¥þ¨Ï¥Î¨Ó¤F¸Ñ§ó¦hªº¸ê°T¡C½×¾Âªº·|­û³Ì±`¨Ï¥Îªº¥i¥R¹q¦¡¹q¦ÀÀ³¸Ó¬ORCR123¹q¦À¡A³oºØ¹q¦Àªº¼Ð¥Ü¹q¶q¤]³Ì±`Äé¤ô¡]¦b¬Y¨Ç¹q¦À¤W¡A¬Æ¦ÜÄé¤ôµ{«×°ª¹F75%¥H¤W¡A³o·|¨Ï¨Ï¥ÎªÌ¬Û«H¡A¥L­Ì¦b¹ê»Ú¨Ï¥Îªº¹Lµ{¤¤¡A¥i¥H¥H«Ü°ªªº¦w¥þ©ñ¹q¶q¨Ó¾Þ§@¡^¡CAW/WE/Pila©Ò½æªº¤j¦h¼Æ¤j®e¶q¹q¦À¡A¥¦­Ì¼Ð¥Üªº¹q¶q«Ü±µªñ¥¦­Ì¹ê»Úªº¹q¶q¡A©Ò¥H¥i¥H«Ü¦w¥þªº¾Þ§@2­¿©ó¹q¦À¹q¶qªº©ñ¹q²v¡]µù18¡^¡]1.5A©Î1.6AHªº17670¹q¦À¥i¥H¦w¥þªº©Ó¨ü3amps©ñ¹qªº¤u§@­t²ü¡^¡C
µù18 §Y¬°2C©ñ¹q¡C
The "Guilt Free" Lumens concept
    ²Ä¤K³¹  µLµh¨Ï¥Î·§©À

    A long time ago(before my time even), a very valued member here at CPF, Paul_In_Maryland, coined the phrase "guilt-free lumens." Here's what he was talking about.
    «Ü¤[¥H«e¡]¬Æ¦Ü¦b§Ú¶i¤J½×¾Â¤§«e¡^¡A¤@¦ì¦bCPF¤W«Ü¦³°^Ämªº¦Ñ«e½ú¡APaul_In_Maryland¡A´£¥X¤F¡uµLµh¨Ï¥Î¡v¡]µù19¡^ªºÆ[©À¡C¥H¤U´N¬O¤@¨Ç¥L»¡¹Lªº½×ÂI¡C

    went through 4 surefire 123s today playing with it, and have decided ..time for rechargeable cells!.
    ¦bª±¹L¤F4ÁûSurefire 123¤@¦¸©Ê¾Y¹q¦À®É´Á«áªº²{¦b¡A§Ú¨M©w¤F¡A¸Ó¬O¨Ï¥Î¥i¥R¹q¦¡¾Y¹q¦Àªº®É­Ô¤F¡C

    The whole reason so many of us are going rechargable is to be able to just play , guilt free. Showing off a fancy light shouldn't come at the guilt of knowing that it is sucking down 2-10+ dollars an hour (depending on configuration) in primary cells. Having rechargeables in a light also lets you use it for more tasks where it is handy, but maybe not necessary, without feeling that guilt of coming that much closer to dropping in more and more cells.
    «Ü¦hª±®a¶}©l¨Ï¥Î¥i¥R¹q¦¡¾Y¹q¦Àªº°ß¤@²z¥Ñ´N¬O¡A§Ú­Ì´N¬O­nª±¤â¹qµ©¡A¤£­n¤ßµh¡CÅý¤â¹qµ©µo¥X¥O¤H¥Ø¯t¯«°gªº¥ú¨~¡A¨Ã¤£»Ý­n¥NªíµÛ§A¦b1¤p®É¤§¤º¿N±¼2-10¶ô¬üª÷¥H¤Wªº¤@¦¸©Ê¾Y¹q¡]¨Ì·Ó§Aªº¤â¹qµ©¦Ó©w¡AĶªÌ«ö¡G¦b¥xÆW¥i¤S¤£¥u³o­Ó»ù®æ¡^¡C¦b¤â¹qµ©ùظˤW¥i¥R¹q¦¡¾Y¹q¦À¡AÅý§A¥i¥H¾¨±¡ªº¨Ï¥Î¤â¹qµ©¡A¦Ó¤£¥Î¬°¤F¤@¦¸¤S¤@¦¸ªº¥á±¼·U¨Ó·U¦hªº¤@¦¸©Ê¾Y¹q¦À¦Ó·P¨ì¤ßµh¡C
µù19 guilty free­ì·N¬°µL¸o´c·P¡A¦bµØ¤Hª±®aªº¥@¬É¡A·N§Y¤j®a¼ô±xªºµLµh¨Ï¥Î¡A¤]´N¬O¤£¥Î¬°¤F¤pªB¤Í¤j¶q¥X¨«¦Ó¤ßµh¡C

    Rechargeable Lithium Ion cells will often deliver 300-1000 cycles depending on how they are used. at a cost of about $6-25 per cell, all it takes is about 6-25 cycles for the cells to have paid for themselves when compared to lithium photo batteries. Since li-ion cells can be "topped up" at any time, we can, guilt free, always have "fresh" cells in the flashlight. Never to throw out a partially depleted cell again because we want to go back to "full brightness." Keep this in mind when choosing cells remember that even if you buy the MOST EXPENSIVE Li-Ion cells they will still be saving you money in the long run. So getting good quality cells shouldn't be looked at as "too expensive" when in reality, it's still cheaper than running primaries.
    ®Ú¾Ú¥¦­Ìªº¨Ï¥Î¤è¦¡¤£¦P¡A¥i¥R¹q¦¡¾Y¹q¦À¦³µÛ300-1000¦¸´`Àô¨Ï¥Î¹Ø©R¡C¥R¹q¦¡¹q¦À¤@Áû¤j·§½æ6-25¶ô¬üª÷¡A¸ò¨Ï¥Î¤@¦¸©Ê¾Y¹q¦À¤ñ¸û°_¨Ó¡A¥u­n­«ÂÐ¥R¹q¨Ï¥Î­Ó6-25¦¸´N¯à¦^¥»¡C¬JµM¥R¹q¦¡¹q¦ÀÀH®É³£¥i¥H¡u¥Rº¡¹q¡v¡A§Ú­Ì¥i¥HÁ`¬O¥i¥H¡AµLµhªº¡A¦b¤â¹qµ©ùØ­±¨Ï¥Î¥Rº¡¹q¶qªº¹q¦À¡C¤£­n¦A¥u¬°¤FÅý¤â¹qµ©µo¥X³Ì±j¥ú«×¡A¦Ó§â¥u¥Î¤F¤@¥bªº¤@¦¸©Ê¾Y¹q¦À¥á±¼¤F¡C­n°O±o¡A§Y¨Ï§A¶Rªº¬O³Ì©ù¶Qªº¥R¹q¦¡¾Y¹q¦À¡A¥Hªø´Á¨Ï¥Îªº¨¤«×¨Ó¬Ý¡A¥¦­ÌÁÙ¬O¥i¥H¬°§A¬Ù¿ú¡C©Ò¥H¶R¦n«~½èªº¹q¦À¤£À³³Q·í°µ¡u©ù¶Q¡v¡A¦b¹ê»Úªº¨Ï¥Î¤W¡A¥¦­Ì¨ÌµM¤ñ¨Ï¥Î¤@¦¸©Ê¹q¦À«K©y¡C
Lumens, Watts, FUN
    ²Ä¤E³¹  ¬y©ú¡B¥\²v¡]¥Ë¯S¡^¤Î¼Ö½ì
    would you get the full 320 lumens[using 2x lithium ion to drive a 9V bulb]???.
    All I can say here is.. try not to get too hung up on lumens.. (I do all the time, but I shouldn't)... For starters, there is such a massive difference in the way different manufactures measure and rate lumens, that you cannot compare the numbers, you have to know the lamps first hand, or have a really good idea of how they were rated to get the number..
    ¡e¥Î2Áû¥i¥R¹q¦¡¹q¦À¡f §A¥i¥H±o¨ì320¬y©úªº¥þ«G«×¶Ü¡H§Ú¦b³oùةү໡ªº¬O¡K¤£­n¤Ó°õµÛ©ó«G«×§a¡I¡]§Ú¦Û¤v¤]±`±`³o¼Ë¡A¦ý¤£À³¸Ó³o¼Ë°µ¡K¡^¡C¹ïªì±µÄ²¤â¹qµ©ªº¤H¨Ó»¡¡A¼t°Ó´ú¶q¤Î¼Ð¥Ü«G«×ªº¤è¦¡¡A¦³µÛ«Ü¤jªº®t²§¡A§A¤£¯à¥u¬Ý¼Æ¦r¡C¤@¶}©l¡A§A¥²»Ý¹ï¥L­Ì«ç»ò¥h±o¨ì³o­Ó¼Æ¦r¡A­n¦³¥R¥÷ªº¤F¸Ñ¡A©ÎªÌ¦³­Ó²M·¡ªº·§©À¡C

    The best way to compare tactical incandescent lights... is to compare power consumption. Keep in mind that different configurations may have different efficiencies, so this isn't an exactly perfect comparison, but it's worth consideration for a "rule of thumb" comparison.
    ­n¤ñ¸û±j¥ú¤â¹qµ©ªº«G«×¡A³Ì¦nªº¤èªk¡A´N¬O¥h¤ñ¸û¥¦­Ì®ø¯Óªº¹q¤O¡C­n°O±o¡A§A¥Î¤£¦Pªº¿Oªw-¹q¦Àªº²Õ¦X¡A·|²£¥Í¤£¦Pªº®Ä¯à¡AÁöµM³o¤£¬O¤@­Ó§¹¬üªº¤ñ¸ûªk¡A¦ý«o¥iµø¬°¬O¤@­Ó¹ê¥Îªº¤èªk¡C

    Your P60 is a ~5V lamp that draws ~1.2Amp. it's about 6 Watts of light. The HO-9 is ~7.2V on fresh RCR123s at about 1.55Amp, or about 11Watts...it's about twice as bright. By comparison, a P61 is about 4.5V in operation by about 2.5Amps, which is also about 11W... notice how the P61 is rated 120 lumen by Surefire, The HO-9 is rated 320 lumens by LF... and believe it or not... both companies have a legitimate number, because they measure differently. Surefire is talking about torch lumens at some point during the discharge (like with half used batteries)... LF is talking about bulb lumens on ~fresh cells. I think Surefire also derates even farther than that... It's nuts how underrated some of their lamps are.
    §AªºP60¬O1Áû¯Ó¹q¶q1.2Amp¡A5Vªº¿Oªw¡A¥¦ªº¥\²v¤j¬ù¬O6W¡CHO-9¬O9V¡A¥Î­è¥R¦nªºRCR123¹q¦À¡A·|®ø¯Ó1.55Ampªº¹q¤O¡A©Î¬O»¡¤j¬ù¥\²v11W¡A¤j·§¬OP60ªº2­¿«G¡C¦A¤ñ¸û¤U¥h¡AP61¿Oªw¼Ò²Õ¤j·§¬O4.5V¡A¯Ó¹q¶q¬ù¬O2.5Amp¡A¤j·§¬O11Wªº¥\²v¡C­nª`·N¨ìªº¬O¡ASurefire§âP61¼Ò²Õ¼Ð¥Ü¬°120¬y©ú¡F¦ÓLF«o§âHO-9¼Ð¥Ü¬°320¬y©ú¡C¦Ó¥B«H¤£«H¥Ñ§A¡A³o2­Ó°Ó®a©Ò¼Ð¥Üªº¬y©ú­È³£¬O¦³¹ê´ú®Ú¾Úªº¡K¡A³o¥u¬O¦]¬°¥L­Ì´ú¶qªº¤èªk¤£¦P¡CSurefire¬O¥Î©ñ¹q¨ì¤@©wµ{«×ªº¹q¦À¡]¨Ò¦p¥u³Ñ¤U¤@¥b¹q¤Oªº¹q¦À¡^¨Ó°µ¿Oªwªº«G«×­È´ú¸Õ¡CLF¬O¥Î¥þ·sªº¹q¦À¨Ó°µ¿Oªwªº«G«×´ú¸Õ¡C§Ú­Ó¤H¬Æ¦Ü»{¬°¡ASurefire¦b¼Ð¥Ü¥L­Ì²£«~ªº«G«×­È®É¡A¤S»·§C©ó³o­Ó¤ô·Ç¡]µù20¡^¡CSurefire¤@©w¬OºÆ¤F¡A¤~·|§â²£«~ªº«G«×­È¼Ð¥Üªº¨º»ò§C¡C
µù20 «ü¥Î¹q¶q¤@¥bªº¹q¦À¡A©Ò´ú¥Xªº¤ô·Ç¡C

    Keep in mind that the eyes are not a very good judge of lumens, and we can not very accurately distinguish a difference unless the difference is about 30% or more. So often times, a "step down" in brightness is just as useful, while provided longer runtime and a better overall utility value of the flashlight. Also keep in mind, that eyes adjust for light intensity, so in a totally dark environment, like out in the woods away from a city, a few lumens goes a long way. Competing with other sources of light to bring the light on a subject "up to" the level of it's surroundings is a situation that often demands more lumens. There is often a misunderstanding that you need more light the darker it is, this couldn't be farther from the truth. In the woods with no ambient light, 100-200 lumens is awesome. In town, lighting up an address at 75ft can take 400-1000 lumens before it is easily visible when eyes are adjusted for all the ambient light.
    °O±o¡A²´·ú¹ï«G«×ªº§PÂ_¤Q¤À¦a¤£·Ç¡A°£«D¹ê»Ú«G«×ªº®t¶Z¦b30%¥H¤W¡A§Ú­Ì¨Ã¨S¦³¿ìªk¤Q¤À¦aºë½T§PÂ_2¤ä¤â¹qµ©¶¡«G«×ªº®t²§¡C¦]¦¹´î§C«G«×¡A¥HÀò±o¤â¹qµ©§óªøªº¨Ï¥Î®É¶¡¡A¤Î§ó¦³®Äªºµo´§¹q¦Àªº¨Ï¥Î®Ä¯à¡A±`±`¬O§ó¥[¦³¥Îªº¡C¦P®É¤]°O±o¡A²´·ú·|ÀHµÛ¥ú½uªº±j®z¦Ó½Õ¾ã¡A©Ò¥H¦b¤@­Ó¹³¬O»·Â÷³£¥«ªº´ËªL¡A³oºØ§¹¥þ¶Â·tªºÀô¹Ò¡A¥u­n¤@ÂIÂI«G«×¡A´N¤Q¤Àªº¦³¥Î¡C¦b¶g¾D¦³«G¥úªºÀô¹Ò¤U¡A­nÀ£¹LÀô¹Ò¥ú®`¡A§â¥ú½u§ë®g¨ì¤@­Óª«Åé¤W¡A±`±`»Ý­n·¥°ªªº«G«×¡C¦Óµ©¤Í­Ì±`»~¸Ñ¤@¥ó¨Æ¡A¨º´N¬O¦b·U¶ÂªºÀô¹Ò¤¤¡A§Ú­Ì·U»Ý­n§ó«Gªº¤â¹qµ©¡A³o¬O¤@­Ó§¹¥þ¿ù»~ªºÆ[©À¡C¦bµLÀô¹Ò¥ú·½¡A§¹¥þ¶Â·tªº´ËªL¤¤¡A100-200¬y©ú´N¤w¸g«G¨ì¤£¦æ¤F¡C¦b«°¥«¤¤¡A¦b§Aªº²´·ú¤w¸g¾AÀ³¤FÀô¹Ò¥ú·½«á¡A§A¥i¯à»Ý­n400-1000¬y©ú¡A¤~¯à·Ó«G¤@­Ó¡A¦b75§`ªº¶ZÂ÷¡A§A­n¬Ýªºª«Åé¡C

    When you desire an "upgrade" in brightness, choose a configuration that is at LEAST double the wattage you are currently running to be impressed. Like going from a P90 to a P91.
    ·í§A·Q­n¤É¯Å«G«×¡A´N¿ï¾Ü¦Ü¤Ö¥i¥H¼W¥[2­¿¥Ë¯S¼Æªº¿Oªw-¹q¦À²Õ¦X¡A³o¼Ë§A¤~·|¤ñ¸û¦³¦¨´N·P¡A¨Ò¦p§âP90¤É¯Å¨ìP91¡C
"3.0V" lithium Ion rechargeable cells
    ²Ä¤Q³¹  3.0V¥i¥R¹q¦¡¾Y¹q¦À

    Very often, someone asks a question about using a "special" type of Li-Ion rechargeable battery that is supposedly 3.0V. They usually want to use a pair of these to run their 6V lamps. This is my response to anyone considering this setup...
    ±`±`¦³¤H·|°Ý¨ì¨Ï¥Î¤@ºØ¯S®íªº3.0V¥i¥R¹q¹q¦¡¾Y¹q¦À¡C¥L­Ì·Q¨Ï¥Î2Áû¨ÓÅX°Ê¥L­Ìªº6V¿Oªw¡C³o¤@³¹¬O¦^À³¥ô¦ó¦³³oºØ»Ý­nªº¤H¡C

    either:
    1. The cells will have protection circuits and won't power up the P60.
    2. The cells won't have large enough voltage regulators to handle the current and the will go bad after a few cycles.
    3. The P60 will burn out, instantly, or after a few cycles because the Li-Ion 3.0V does not sag under a load as much as the primary cells the lamp was designed for do.
    4. The cells will not live up to their capacity rating at the level of power you demand from them, giving poor runtime (10-20 minutes)
    5. The voltage regulator in the cell will overheat, in conjunction with the heat from the lamp, and the cell, you will be at high risk of vent-with-flame.
    6. You wish you had just started with the 9V configuration to begin with.
    ¤U¦Cªº¥ô¦ó¤@ºØ±¡ªp³£·|µo¥Í¡G
    1. ¹q¦À·|¦³«OÅ@¹q¸ô¡A¦Ó³oºØ¹q¦À¤Wªº«OÅ@¹q¸ô¡A¥i¯à¨Ï±o¹q¦ÀµLªkÂI«G¿Oªw¡C
    2. ¹q¦À¨S¦³¨¬¥H©Ó¸ü¤j¹q¬y¶qªº¹qÀ£½Õ¸`¾¹¡A¥i¯à¥Î¹L´X¦¸«á´N·|¬G»Ù¡C
    3. P60¿Oªw±N·|°¨¤W©Î¥Î¹L´X¦¸´N¿N·´¡A¦]¬°3.0Vªº¥i¥R¹q¦¡¹q¦À¡A¦b¦³¤u§@­t²üªº±¡ªp¤U¡A¹qÀ£­È¨Ã¤£·|¹³¬O¤@¦¸©Ê¾Y¹q¦À¨º¼Ë¤U­°¡A¦ÓP60¿Oªw¬O³Q³]­p¨Ó¾AÀ³¤@¦¸©Ê¾Y¹q³oºØ¯S©Êªº¡C
    4. ¹q¦À¨Ã¨S¦³¿ìªk²Å¦X§A©Ò´Á«Ýªº®Ä¯à¡A¿é¥Xªº¹q¶q«Ü¤p¡A¥i¾Þ§@ªº®É¶¡¤]«Üµu¡]10-20¤ÀÄÁ¡^¡C
    5. ¹q¦À¤ºªº¹qÀ£½Õ¸`¾¹·|¹L¼ö¡A¦A¥[¤W¿Oªw©Ò²£¥Íªº¼ö«×¡A§A·|«_µÛ§Aªº¤â¹qµ©±N·|Ãz¬µªº­·ÀI¡C
    6.§A³Ì¦n±q9Vªº¿Oªw³]©w¶}©l¤J¤â¡C

    choose one of the following configurations:
    1. a 3.7V bulb powered by 1 Lithium-Ion Cell.
    2. a 9V bulb powered by 2 Lithium-Ion Cells.
    3. a 13V bulb powered by 3 Lithium-Ion Cells.
    ¿ï¾Ü¥H¤Uªº¿Oªw-¹q¦À²Õ¦X³]©w¡G
    1. 1­Ó3.7Vªº¿Oªw¡A¥Ñ1Áû¥i¥R¹q¦¡¾Y¹q¦ÀÅX°Ê¡C
2. 1­Ó9Vªº¿Oªw¡A¥Ñ2Áû¥i¥R¹q¦¡¾Y¹q¦ÀÅX°Ê¡C
    3. 1­Ó13Vªº¿Oªw¡A¥Ñ3Áû¥i¥R¹q¦¡¾Y¹q¦ÀÅX°Ê¡C

    This response is in reference to 3.7V Lithium Cobalt Oxide cells that have voltage regulators built in to step down the voltage.
    ¥H¤Wªº²Õ¦X¬Oµ¹¨Ï¥Î¤º«Ø¹qÀ£½Õ¸`¾¹§â3.7V¾Y¹W¤@®ñ¤Æª«ªº¹qÀ£©¹¤U½Õ¾ãªº¥i¥R¹q¦¡¹q¦Àªº¦^À³¡C

    There are some new chemistries of Lithium rechargeables coming out, for example, LifeP04 chemistry. This guide does not cover the uses of these cells as they are very new, time will tell what configurations these cells are good for.
    ¦³¤@¨Ç¥Î·sªº¤Æ¾Çª«½èºc¦¨ªº¥i¥R¹q¦¡¾Y¹q¦À°Ý¥@¤F¡A¨Ò¦p¡ALiFeP04¤Æ¾Ç¹q¦À¡C¦]¬°³o¨Ç¹q¦À«D±`·s¡A³o½g«ü«n¨Ã¨S¦³²[»\³o¨Ç¹q¦À¡A¦ý¬O®É¶¡·|§i¶D§Ú­Ì³o¨Ç¹q¦À¨ì©³©Ê¯à¦p¦ó¡C

    I would like to make note, that it is sometimes becoming hard to distinguish what cells really are "under the hood." Many LiFeP04 cells are simply sold as "3.0V Li-Ion cells" which can make it difficult to know what they are. Different types of "3.0V" cells have different charging requirements, anywhere from 3.6V, 3.8V, 4.4V, and 4.5V, and chargers are often very misleading on which type of 3.0V cell they are intended to charge. If you do have a special application for a 3.0V cell, please be absolutely certain you are getting the proper charger, check with the distributor of the cells, they usually sell "bungles" that include the correct charger for the cell being sold. At this time, I recommend LiFeP04 "3.0V" cells over the previous generation 3.7V cells with regulators in them. The new chemistry is very safe. They don't have as much total capacity, but at least you don't have to worry about them misbehaving.
    §Ú­n«ü¥X¡A¦³®É­Ô¡A¤À¿ë¦b«Ê¸Ë¤Uªº¹q¦À¡A¨ì©³¬O¤°»ò¹q¦À¬O«ÜÃøªº¡C«Ü¦hLiFeP04¹q¦À´N¥u³Q·í§@¬O3.0V¥i¥R¹q¦¡¹q¦À¨Ó³c°â¡A³o¨Ï±o¤À¿ë³o¨Ç¹q¦À¦¨¬°¤@¥ó§xÃøªº¤u§@¡C¤£¦PºØÃþªº3.0V¹q¦À¡A·|¦³¤£¦Pªº¥R¹q»Ý¨D¡A¥¦­Ì¥i¯à·|¬O3.6V¡B3.8V¡B4.4V©Î¬O4.5V¡C¦Ó¨ì©³­þºØ¥R¹q¾¹¸Ó¥R­þºØ3.0Vªº¹q¦À¡A¤]±`±`Åý¤H·d¤£²M·¡¡C°²¦p§A¯uªº¦³¯S®íªº»Ý¨D¡A¥²»Ý¥Î¨ì3.0Vªº¥R¹q¦¡¹q¦À¡A½Ð§Aµ´¹ï­n«Ü½T©w¡A§A¨Ï¥Îªº¬O¥¿½Tªº¥R¹q¾¹¡A©Î³\¤]¥i¥H°Ý¤@¤U¹q¦Àªº¸g¾P°Ó¡A¥L­Ì³q±`¦³³c°â¡ubundle¡v¥]¸Ëªº°Ó«~¡A¤]´N¬O¹q¦À³s¦P¥¿½Tªº¥R¹q¾¹¤@°_³c°âªº¥]¸Ë¡C³o¤@¦¸¡A§Ú·|±ÀÂËLiFeP04¡A3.0vªº¹q¦À¡F¦Ó¤£¬O¥Î¤º«Ø¹qÀ£½Õ¾ã¾¹§â­ì¨Ó3.7V­°À£ªº¹q¦À¡C³oºØ·sªº¤Æ¾Çª«½è«D±`¦w¥þ¡C¥¦­Ìªº¹q®e¶q¬Û¹ïªº¤ñ¸û¤p¡A¦ý¦Ü¤Ö§A¤£¥Î¾á¤ß¥¦­Ì·|ÀH®Éµ¹§A¥Xª¬ªp¡C
Why doesn't my flashlight work?
    ²Ä¤Q³¹  ¬°¤°»ò§Úªº¤â¹qµ©¤£·|«G¡H

    There are an enormous number of threads started like this:
    I bought rechargeable protected cells from "X seller" and it isn't working???
    5 times out of 10, the protection circuit in the cell, is shutting down the cell before the lamp can come to life. This has been a problem for Li-Ion users since the beginning, but people ignore the suggestions, save a few dollars ordering cheap cells from some other place, and then find out that their cells are useless to them... Keep in mind that MOST protected Li-Ion cells were never designed with the characteristics of an incandescent bulb in mind, so they will not deliver the startup current that the bulb demands. Bulbs draw 3-5+ times their steady state power for the first few milliseconds. A cold filament has much less resistance than a hot one. If that power drain trips the protection in the cell, the light won't turn on.. In some cases, you can "tap" the switch a few times, to bring the filament up to temperature, but ideally speaking, having cells designed with incandescent lamps in mind is best. Please stick to AWs protected, Wolf-Eyes, or Pila cells. There have been some recent tests showing that Pila cells are slightly better performing than the others, but they are also quite expensive, so choose your cells wisely. At the time of writing this, AW is the only seller of a RCR123 sized cell WITH a protection circuit that will reliably and safely light up lamps up to 1.5Amp without the need for "double tapping" or any other issues.
¦³µL¼Æªº°Q½×¦ê¥H³oºØ¤è¦¡¶}ÀY¡G
§Ú±qX¸g¾P°Ó¨ºùضR¤F¦³«OÅ@¹q¸ôªº¥i¥R¹q¹q¦À¡A¦ý¥¦¨S¦³¥Î¡H
    10¦¸ùØ­±·|¦³5¦¸¡A¬O¹q¦À¤º³¡ªº«OÅ@¹q¸ô¦b¤â¹qµ©«G°_¨Ó¤§«e´N§â¹q¬yÂ_¸ô¡C±qª±®a¶}©l¥Î¥i¥R¹q¹q¦À¥H¨Ó¡A³o¤@ª½´N¬O¤@­Ó°ÝÃD¡A¦ý¬O¤H­Ì¤]©¿²¤±¼¤@­Ó¥i¯à©Ê¡A¨º´N¬O¬°¤F¬Ù´X¶ô¿ú±q¤@¨Ç¦a¤è¶R¤F«Ü«K©yªº¥R¹q¦¡¹q¦À¡A¤~µo²{¡A¥¦­Ì®Ú¥»µLªk¨Ï¥Î¡C°O±o¡A¤j³¡¥÷ªº¥i¥R¹q¦¡¹q¦À¡A¦b³]­p»s³yªº®É­Ô¡A¨Ã¨S¦³§â¹q¿Oªwªº¥Î¹q¯S©Ê¦Ò¶q¦b¤º¡A©Ò¥H¥¦­Ì¨S¦³¿ìªk¿é¥X¿Oªw¦b¶}©lÂI«Gªº®É­Ô¡A©Ò»Ý¨Dªº±Ò°Ê¹q¬y¡C¿Oªw¦b±Ò°ÊÀþ¶¡ªº´X²@¬í¡A·|±q¹q¦À¤ºº^¨ú¤ñ¥­±`¨Ï¥Î®É3-5­¿¥H¤Wªº¹q¤O¡C§NªºÂëµ·ªº¹qªý¤ñ¼öªº®É­Ô§C«Ü¦h¡C°²¦pÀþ¶¡ªº¤j¹q¬y¶q¡AIJµo¤F¹q¦À¤º«Øªº«OÅ@¹q¸ô¡A¤â¹qµ©·íµM¤£·|ÂI«G¡C¦³®É­Ô¡A§A¥i¥H³sÄò¦h«ö´X¦¸¶}Ãö¡AÅýÂëµ··Å«×¤W¤É¡A¦ý²z·Q¤W¨Ó»¡¡A³Ì¦n¶R¬°±j¥ú¤â¹qµ©³]­pªº¥R¹q¦¡¾Y¹q¡C³oùØÁÙ¬O«ØijÁʶRAW¡BWolf-Eye©ÎªÌ¬OPilaªº¹q¦À¡C³Ìªñ¦³¤@¨Ç´ú¸Õ«ü¥X¡APila¹q¦Àªº©Ê¯à¸û¨ä¥L2­Ó¼tµPÁÙ­n¦n¤@¨Ç¨Ç¡A³o³oµP¤lªº¹q¦À¤Q¤À©ù¶Q¡A©Ò¥HÁÙ¬O±o¥J²Óªº¿ï¾Ü¹q¦À¡C¦b¼g³o½g«ü«nªº®É­Ô¡AAW¬O°ß¤@¥X²£¦³«OÅ@¹q¸ô¦Ó¥B¬O¥i¾aªº¡A¨¬¥H¦w¥þªºÂI«G1.5amp¥H¤W¯Ó¹q¶qªºRCR123¹q¦Àªº¼t°Ó¡A¥¦¤£»Ý­n¤@ª½«ö¶}Ãö¡A©Î°µ¨ä¥L¦h¾lªº¨Æ¡A§Y¥iÂI«G¤â¹qµ©¡C

    4 times out of 10, the flashlight is not working because there is a break in electrical contact somewhere in the path. Keep in mind that lithium-ion cells in various configurations may be +/- a few mm from original CR123 configuration. Many lithium-ion cells do not have the button contacts on the positive ends the way ordinary primary cells do. The positive end is often recessed about 0.5mm from the shrink-wrapping. The most common solution to making contact between cells is the use of small neodymium "rare-earth" magnets between the cells. Many users advise against using these magnets because there is a risk of the magnet sliding to the edge of the body and shorting out a cell. It has been my experience, that if there is a lip on the cell preventing contact to the next cell, that lip will usually prevent the shifting of the magnet. The use of protected cells also reduces the risk in using magnets because 99% of the time you short out a protected cell, it will shut down within a millisecond, preventing damage to the cell. If you drop your flashlight, and you are using magnets to make contact, I recommend removing the cells, and checking for magnet placement as soon as possible to prevent any complications. Other connection issues can often be solved by stretching a spring, or cleaning up contact points. (sanding, pro-golding, etc).
10¦¸ùØ­±¦³4¦¸¡A¤â¹qµ©¬O¦]¬°¤º³¡¦³ªÅ»Ø¡]µù20¡^¦ÓµLªkÂI«G¡C°O±o¡A¥i¥R¹q¦¡¾Y¹q»P¤@¦¸©Ê¾Y¹q¬Û¸û°_¨Ó¡A¥¦­Ìªº+/-·¥¬O¦³´Xmm»~®t¡C«Ü¦h¥i¥R¹q¦¡¹q¦À¡A¦b¥¿·¥ºÝµLªk¹³¤@¦¸©Ê¾Y¹q¨º¼Ë¡A±µÄ²¨ì¿Oªw¼Ò²Õ¡C¦]¬°¼öÁY½¤¥]¸ËªºÃö«Y¡A¥¿·¥ºÝ·|µu0.5mm¥ª¥k¡C­n¨Ï¹q¦À±µÄ²¦b¤@°_ªº³Ì±`¨£ªº¸Ñ¨M¤è¦¡¡A´N¬O¦b¹q¦À¶¡¨Ï¥Î×ýµ}¤gºÏÅK¡C«Ü¦h¨Ï¥ÎªÌ«Øij¤£­n¨Ï¥ÎºÏÅK¡A¦]¬°¦³¥i¯à¹q¦À·|·Æ¨ìÃäÃä¡A¸IIJ¨ìµ©¨­¡A³y¦¨¹q¦Àµu¸ô¡C§Úªº¸gÅç¬O¡A¹q¦À«Ê¸Ëªº¶ì½¦½¤¡A·|¦³¤@©wªº«p«×¨Ó¨¾¤î¹q¦À©¼¦¹±µÄ²¡A¨ºÀ³¸Ó·|¨¾¤îºÏÅK·Æ°Ê¡C¨Ï¥Î¦³«OÅ@¹q¸ôªº¹q¦À¡A¤]¥i¥H´î§C¨Ï¥ÎºÏÅKªº­·ÀI¡A·í§A¨Ï¦³«OÅ@¹q¸ôªº¹q¦Àµu¸ô¡A«OÅ@¹q¸ô±N·|¦b1²@¬í¤º¤¤Â_¹q¦Àªº¹B§@¡A¨Ó¨¾¤î¹q¦Àªº·lÃa¡C°²¦p§Aªº¤â¹qµ©±¼¨ì¦a¤W¡A¦Ó§A¦³¨Ï¥ÎºÏÅKªº¸Ü¡A§Ú·|«Øij§A§â¹q¦À®³¥X¨Ó¡A¾¨§ÖÀˬdºÏÅK©ñ¸mªº¦ì¸m¡A¥H§K¥ô¦ó·N¥~µo¥Í¡C¨ä¥L¸Ñ¨M¤è¦¡¹³¬O©µªø¼u®ªºªø«×¡A©Î¬O§â±µÄ²ºÝ¤l²M²z°®²b¡A³£¥i¥H¸ÕµÛ°µ°µ¬Ý¡C
µù20 ³oùتºªÅ»Ø¬O«ü¹q¦À¤Óµu¦ÓµLªk±µÄ²¨ì¿Oªw¼Ò²ÕºÝ¡A§Î¦¨¹q¸ô¡C

    AW often sends magnets when you buy batteries and chargers from him that may need them. Most Radio Shack stores also carry packs of 2 under the part number 64-1895. These are perfect size... However, the RadioShack variety does not have a nickel plating like most others, so they are more prone to shatter under stress, so be careful when handling them.
    AW¦b§A¶R¥R¹q¾¹©Î¹q¦Àªº®É­Ô±`·|°eºÏÅK¡A§A¦b»Ý­nªº®É­Ô´N¥i¥H¥Î¤W¡C¤j¦h¼ÆªºRadio Shack°Ó©±¡]µù21¡^¡A¥i¥H¶R¨ì2Áû«Ê¸Ë¦b¤@°_ªº¹q¦À¡A³f¸¹¬O64-1895¡C³o´N¬O§¹¬üªº¤Ø¤o¡C¦ý³oºØ«Ê¸Ë¨Ã¨S¦³¹³¨ä¥L¤j³¡¥÷ªº«Ê¸Ë¤@¼Ë¨Ï¥Î²kÂì¡A¥¦­Ì¦bÀ£¤O¤U«Ü®e©ö¸ÑÅé¡A©Ò¥H·í§A¦b¨Ï¥Î³oºØ¹q¦Àªº®É­Ô­n¤p¤ß¡C
µù21  À³¸Ó¬O³c°âµL½u¹q¾¹§÷ªº°Ó©±¡C

    1 out of 10 times, the bulb or switch is burnt out and the user is unaware. You can use a DMM set to ohms, (or continuity check) to test bulbs and switches. A reading indicating "open circuit" or very high resistance (several thousand ohms or higher) will almost always mean a burnt out bulb or busted switch.
    10¦¸ùØ­±¦³1¦¸¡A¬O¦]¬°¿Oªw©Î¶}Ãö¿NÃa¤F¡A¦Ó¨Ï¥ÎªÌ¨S¦³¹îı¡C§A¥i¥H¥Î¼Æ¦ì¹qªí¡A³]©w¨ì ohms¡]©Î°µ³q³s´ú¸Õ¡^¨Ó´ú¸Õ¿Oªw¤Î¶}Ãö¡C¦pªGŪ¼ÆÅã¥Ü¶}©ñ¹q¸ô©Î¬O«D±`°ªªº§Ü²Õ­È¡]¼Æ¤d©Î§ó°ªªºohms­È¡^´X¥G¥i¥H½T©w¬O¼áªw©Î¬O¶}Ãö¿NÃa¤F¡C
Avoid Unprotected LiCo cells
    ²Ä¤Q¤@³¹  ¤£­n¨Ï¥ÎµL«OÅ@¹q¸ôªº¥i¥R¹q¦¡¹q¦À

    We will always have people using unprotected LiCo cells for various reasons. These cells are often much cheaper. They do work, provided the user is willing to monitor the condition of the cells, and be very careful not to over-discharge the cells. Please avoid unprotected cells unless you know what you are doing. I'm not going to discuss setups involving unprotected cells in this guide. If it won't work with a protected cell, it's probably a dangerous configuration that should be avoided.
    §Ú­ÌÁ`¬O·|¬Ý¨ìµ©¤Í­Ì¦]¬°¦U¦¡¦U¼Ëªº¦]¯À¨Ï¥ÎµL«OÅ@¹q¸ôªº¥i¥R¹q¦¡¹q¦À¡C³o¨Ç¹q¦À«K©y«Ü¦h¡C³o¨Ç¹q¦À·íµM¦³¥Î¡A¥¦­Ì¬O´£¨Ñµ¹Ä@·NÀH®ÉºÊ±±¹q¦Àª¬ªpªº¤H¡A­n«D±`¤p¤ß¡A¤£­n¹L¥R³o¨Ç¹q¦À¡C°£«D§A¦Û¤vª¾¹D§A¦b°µ¤°»ò¡A§_«h´N¤£­n¨Ï¥ÎµL«OÅ@¹q¸ôªº¥i¥R¹q¹q¦À¡C¦b³o½g«ü«n¤¤¡A§Ú¤£¥´ºâ°Q½×µL«OÅ@¹q¸ô¹q¦Àªº²Õ¦X³]©w¡C°²¦p§Aªº¤â¹qµ©¤£¬O¥Î¦³«OÅ@¹q¸ôªº¹q¦À-¿Oªw²Õ¦X³]©w¡A³o¼Ëªº²Õ¦XÀ³¸Ó³Qµø¬°¬O¦MÀIªº¡AÀ³¸ÓÁקK¡C

    If you are going to build up a configuration that uses unprotected cells, please choose a quality brand cell to minimize risk. Off-brand cells may not be very well matched capacity wise from cell to cell which could lead to unforeseen problems. some quality unprotected cells are LG, Sony, and Panasonic.
    °²¦p§A­n¥ÎµL«OÅ@¹q¸ôªº¹q¦À¨Ó°µ¿Oªw-¹q¦Àªº²Õ¦X¡A½Ð¿ï¥Î¦³«~½èªº¤j¼t¹q¦À¨Ó§â­·ÀI´î¨ì³Ì§C¡CµLµP¹q¦À¥»¨­¹q¦À»P¹q¦À¶¡ªº¹q¶q´NµLªk·f°t±o«Ü¦n¡A³o¥i¯à·|¤Þµo¤£¥i¹w´úªº¦MÀI¡C¤j¼t¹q¦À¦pLG¡BSony¡BPanasonic³£¥i¥H¦Ò¼{¡C

    [edit in 11/11/08]{LiMn chemistry cells are not available with protection circuits and do not need protection circuits, ignore this warning if you are using LiMn chemistry cells}
    ¡e11/11/08­×­q¡fLiMn¤Æ¦Xª«¥i¥R¹q¹q¦À¬O¨S¦³«OÅ@¹q¸ôªº¡A¦Ó¥¦­Ì¤]¤£»Ý­n«OÅ@¹q¸ô¡A§A¦pªG¨Ï¥Îªº¬OLiMn¹q¦À¡A¥i¥H©¿²¤³o­Óĵ§i¡C

    The use of magnets to make contact between unprotected cells (regardless of chemistry) is very risky as the magnet can shift and make contact with the body of the flashlight and short out the cell.
    ¥ÎºÏÅK¦bµL«OÅ@¹q¸ô¹q¦À¶¡°µ³s±µ¡]¤£½×¥ô¦ó¤Æ¾Ç¦¨¥÷ªº¹q¦À¡^¨ã¦³«D±`°ªªº­·ÀI¡A¦]¬°ºÏÅK¥i¯à²¾°Ê¡A¨Ã±µÄ²¨ì¤â¹qµ©ªºµ©¨­³y¦¨¹q¦Àªºµu¸ô¡C
Cell sizes
    ²Ä¤Q¤G³¹  ¹q¦Àªº¤Ø¤o

    So what's with all the numbers? Lets decrypt the code
    ©Ò¥H¨º¨Ç¼Æ¦r¨ì©³¬O¤°»ò¡HÅý§Ú­Ì¨Ó¸Ñ½X§a¡I

    Here's some references to cell sizes and their names, Pila and Wolf-eyes make 4 cell sizes... they are roughly the same as the "industry" sizes by the following chart.
    ³oùئ³¤@¨Ç¹q¦À¦WºÙ¤Î¤Ø¤oªº°Ñ¦Ò¸ê®Æ¡APila¤ÎWolf-Eyes»s³y4ºØ¤Ø¤oªº¹q¦À¡A¥L­Ì¦b¤U¦Cªºªí¤¤¡A¤j­P¤W¬O²Å¦X¤u·~¥Îªº¤Ø¤o¡C

    AW follows the "normal" cell naming structure described below:
    AW¿í¦u¥¿³Wªº¹q¦À³W®æ¼Ð¥Ü¡A±Ô­z¦b¤U­±¡G

    mm diameter x mm length, the 0 on the end stands for cylindrical.
    a 21370 cell would be 21mm diameter, 37mm long, cylindrical.
    mmª½®|¡Ñmmªø«×¡A³Ì«áªº¼Æ¦r0¥Nªí¶ê±í§Î¡C
    1Áû21370¹q¦Àªºª½®|¬Oª½®|21mm¡Aªø37mm¡A¶ê±í§Îªº¹q¦À¡C

    AW...WE...PILA
    17500/150B/300S=1.5x length of a CR123 and slightly thicker, fits most SF bodies. capacity ~1000-1100mAh
    18500/150A/300P=1.5x length of a CR123 and quite a bit thicker, fits WE, Pila, Leef bodies, and some other chinese lights. capacity ~1400-1500mAh
    17670/168B/600S= 2x length of a CR123 and slightly thicker, fits most SF bodies. capacity ~1500-1600mAh
    18650/168A/600P=2x length of a CR123 and quite a bit thicker, fits WE, Pila, Leef bodies, and some other chinese lights. capacity ~1800-2600mAh
AW...WE...PILA
    17500/150B/300S=1.5x1Áû CR123ªø«×¡A¦³¤@ÂIÂI¤ñ¸û«p¡A¥i¥H¶ë±o¶i¤j³¡¥÷Surefireªº±í¨­¡C¹q®e¶q1000-1100mAh¡C
    18500/150A/300P=1.5x l ÁûCR123ªø«× ¡A¦³¤ñ¸û«p¡A¶ë±o¶iWE¡B Pila¡BLeef ±í¨­¡AÁÙ¦³¨ä¥Lªº¤¤°ê»s¤â¹qµ©¡C¹q®e¶q1400-1500mAh¡C
    17670/168B/600S= 2x 1ÁûCR123ªø«×¡A¦³¤@ÂIÂI¤ñ¸û«p¡A¥i¥H¶ë±o¶i¤j³¡¥÷Surefireªº±í¨­¡C¹q®e¶q1500-1600mAh¡C
    18650/168A/600P=2x l ÁûCR123ªø«× ¡A«p«Ü¦h¡A¶ë±o¶iWE¡B Pila¡BLeef ±í¨­¡AÁÙ¦³¨ä¥Lªº¤¤°ê»s¤â¹qµ©¡C¹q®e¶q1800-2600mAh


    the 123 reference:
    16340=16320=16330=CR123A=R123=RCR123A. we have lots of ways we "short-hand" these common cells, often just called "123" in reference to this size cell.
    Primary CR123As: 3.0V 1300mAh
    Li-Ion RCR123As: 3.7V ~500-600mAh
    123¹q¦À°Ñ¦Ò¸ê®Æ¡G
    16340=16320=16330=CR123A=R123=RCR123A¡C¥«­±¤W¹ï©ó³oºØ¤Ø¤oªº¹q¦Àªº«¬¸¹¤Ó¦h¤F¡A³oùصLªk¤@¤@¦CÁ|¡A¤Ï¥¿³qºÙ¬°123¤Ø¤o¹q¦À¡C
    ¤@¦¸©Ê CR123: 3.0V 1300mAh
    ¥i¥R¹q¦¡ RCR123: 3.7V ~500-600mAh

    more size references
    15270=CR2 lithium photo battery size
    14670=4/3AA (often used in some SF bodies that are so narrow, that a 17670 will not fit, also used in mag-light mods a lot)
    14500= same size as a AA cell
    14250= same diameter, half the length of an AA cell
    10440= AAA cell size
    §ó¦h¨ä¥L¤Ø¤o¹q¦À°Ñ¦Ò¸ê®Æ¡G
    15270=CR2 ¬Û¾÷¥Î¤@¦¸©Ê¾Y¹q¦À¡C
    14670=4/3AA (±`¥Î¦b17760¸Ë¤£¤U¥hªºSurefire¯U¯¶±í¨­,¤]±`¥Î¦b17760¸Ë¤£¤Uªºmag-liteµ©¨­)
    14500= ¸òAA¹q¦À¤@¼Ë¤Ø¤o
    14250=¸ò AA¹q¦Àª½®|¤@¼Ë¡A¦ýªø«×¥u¦³¤@¥b
    10440= ¸òAAA¹q¦À¤Ø¤o¤@¼Ë

    There are a lot more cells out there, this is just some of the stuff we see around here pretty commonly.
    ¦b¥«­±¤WÁÙ¦³«Ü¦h¨ä¥Lªº¹q¦À¡A¦ý¤j¦h¼Æ¸ò§Ú­Ì¤W­z©Ò´£¨ìªº¹q¦À¬O¤Q¤À¬Ûªñªº¡C
Compatibility
    ²Ä¤Q¤T³¹  ¬Û®e©Ê

    Now we know how big the cells are, where do I stuff em?
    ²{¦b¡A§Ú­Ì¤w¸gª¾¹D¹q¦À¦³¦h¤j¤F¡A§Ú­Ì­n«ç»ò·f°t¤â¹qµ©©O¡H

    If a CR123A, is 16mm x 34mm, and we have a flashlight that holds 2 cells, then we have about ~67mm of length to work with. If this is a Surefire, then we probably have room for a 17mm diameter cell, if it's a Wolf-Eyes, then we have room for a 18mm diameter cell. We can use either a 17670, or an 18650 size cell, or 2 RCR123 size cells, we can use 3.7V, or 9V lamps.
°²¦pCR123Aªº¤Ø¤o¬O16mm¡Ñ34mm¡A§Ú­Ì¦³¤@­Ó¥i¥H¸Ë2Áû¹q¦Àªº¤â¹qµ©¡A§Ú­Ì´N¦³¤@­Ó67mmªøªºªÅ¶¡¥i¨Ñ§Q¥Î¡C¦pªG³o¬OSurefire±í¨­¡A§Ú­Ì¤j·§¦³¥i¥H¶ë¶iª½®|17mm¹q¦ÀªºªÅ¶¡¡C°²¦p¬OWolf-Eyesªº¹qµ©¡A§Ú­Ì´N¦³ªÅ¶¡¥i¥H¶ë¤J18mmª½®|ªº¹q¦À¡C§Ú­Ì¥i¥H¨Ï¥Î17670©ÎªÌ¬O18650¹q¦À¡A©Î¬O2ÁûRCR123¹q¦À¡A¨Ó·f°t3.7V©Î¬O9Vªº¿Oªw¡C

    If we buy a flashlight that holds 3 of these. Then we have about ~100mm of length to work with. So a PAIR of 17500, or 18500 cells, would fit great. This will drive 9V lamps. There are a few configurations that would allow the use of 3 RCR123 cells driving a ~13V lamp in this size body as well.
    °²¦p§Ú­Ì¶Rªº¤â¹qµ©¥i¥H¨Ï¥Î3ÁûRCR123¹q¦À¡C§Ú­Ì´N¥i¥H¦³¤j¬ù100mmªºªø«×¥i¥H¨Ï¥Î¡C¦]¦¹2Áû17500©Î¬O18500¹q¦À´N¥i¥H«Ü®e©ö¦a©ñ¶i¥h¡C³o¥i¥HÅX°Ê9V¿Oªw¡C¦³¤@¨Ç¿Oªw-¹q¦Àªº²Õ¦X¤]¥i¥HÅý§Ú­Ì¨Ï¥Î3ÁûRCR123¹q¦À¨ÓÅX°Ê13Vªº¿Oªw¡C

    If our flashlight holds 4 of these cells, then we have more like ~130mm of length to work with. So we are going to use a PAIR of 17670 or 18650 size cells to drive a 9V lamp.
    °²¦p§Ú­Ìªº¤â¹qµ©¥i¥H¨Ï¥Î4ÁûRCR123¹q¦À¡A§Ú­Ì´N·|¦³¤j¬ù130mmªºªø«×¥i¥Î¡C©Ò¥H§Ú­Ì´N·|¨Ï2Áû17670©Î¬O18650¹q¦À¨ÓÅX°Ê1Áû9V¿Oªw¡C

    There are some custom configurations made possible through the use of Wolf-Eyes extenders/bodies, Leef bodies, and other modifications, that allow the use of 3 50mm long cells, or 3 ~65mm long cells, to drive 13V "turbo" lamps.
    ¦³¤@¨Ç­Ó¤H¤Æªº³]©w²Õ¦X¡A³z¹L¨Ï¥ÎWolf-Eyesªº©µªøµ©©Î¬Oµ©¨­¡BLeefªºµ©¨­©Î¬O¨ä¥L«~µPªºµ©¨­¡AÅý§Ú­Ì¥i¥H¨Ï¥Î3Áû50mmªøªº¹q¦À¡A©Î¬O3-65mm¨Óªº¹q¦À¡A¨ÓÅX°Ê13Vªº´õ½üÀY¡C

    I have added a list of well known configurations that use D26 type lamps and many other lamps in the next post of this guides thread.
    §Ú¤]¦b¤U¤@«h°Q½×¦êªº¦Cªí¤¤²K¥[¤F¨Ï¥Î¤FD26¿Oªw¼Ò²Õ¤Î¨ä¥LºØÃþªº¿Oªw¡A©Ò§¹¦¨ªº±`¥Î²Õ¦X¡C

    There are many other brands of tactical lights that use similar configurations of photo batteries, and lamps. Ultrafire and Superfire tactical lights, G&P tactical lights, PILA tactical lights. There are also some "no-name" oddballs that can be had for very cheap through sources like http://www.dealextreme.com that support the common 26mm lamp and photo batteries. To maximize your success rate on li-ion conversions, I suggest sticking to higher quality stuff that has good dealer/manufacture support. Wolf-Eyes and Pila are a great place to start if you want to buy a purpose designed Li-Ion powered incandescent flashlight.
    ¦³«Ü¦h¨ä¥L«~µPªº±j¥ú¤â¹qµ©¨Ï¥Î¬Û¾÷¾Y¹q¤Î¿Oªwªº¬Û¦ü²Õ¦X³]©w¡A¨Ò¦pUltrafire¤ÎSuperfire±j¥ú¤â¹qµ©¡BG&P±j¥ú¤â¹qµ©¤ÎPILA±j¥ú¤â¹qµ©¡C¦b³o­Óºô¯¸¡Ghttp://www.dealextreme.com¤]¥i¥H¶R¨ì«Ü¦h¤£ª¾¦Wªº©_©Ç¿Oªw¡A¥i¥H¥Î¨Ó·f°t±`¨£ªº26mm¿Oªw¤Î¬Û¾÷¹q¦À¡C¬°¤F¨Ï§A§ï¥Î¥R¹q¦¡¹q¦Àªº¦¨¥\¾÷²v¼W¨ì³Ì¤j¡A§Ú«Øij§AÁÙ¬OÀ³¸ÓÁʶR¦³Àu¨}ªº¸g¾P°Ó¤Î¼t®a°µ«á¬Þªº²£«~¡C¦pªG§A·Q­n²Õ¦X¥X¤@²Õ¦³¯S©w¨Ï¥Î¥Øªºªº±j¥ú¥Õ¿K¿O¤â¹qµ©¡AWolf-Eyes ¤ÎPila±N·|¬O¤@¶}©l°µ¿Oªw-¹q¦À²Õ¦Xªº¦n¦a¤è¡C
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