懷念的再次開箱ST90s+維修、改造
[i=s] 本帖最後由 yy3070330703 於 2020-9-20 04:31 編輯 [/i]想想我上一回入手ST90s是多久以前呢?<br>
一查...居然5年半了!!!略有感慨呢...<br>
當時還是萌新、我的開箱 [url=https://www.wii.tw/~fogerdis/viewthread.php?tid=44564&highlight=][color=Blue]遲來的開箱文~-ST90、ST90S、K40M[/color][/url]<br>
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回想那時我初踏入電筒坑，到處亂跑亂跳漂流了半年才接觸到電筒王論壇<br>
第一把入手的就是新手必入的學費筒ST90!<br>
在見識到它威猛的光束後，爬文看筒友推薦遠射更加強力的ST90s、隔一周立馬就下單了<br>
入手後點亮，那驚人的光束實在讓我大為驚艷!!:lol <br>
(現在依然記得我第一把跟團的電筒、也我的第三把電筒是DQG Tiny 18650;P )<br>
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說起來ˊ這兩ˋ把也是我接觸DIY電筒的最初犧牲者(闔掌:D :D <br>
之後...坑越跳越深，遠射筒越來越多把，遠射能力漸漸變得不上不下的ST90s，在長達半年無出場機會後，就忍痛出掉了:'( <br>
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沒想到睽違5年後，因工作上需求需要ˋ一把便宜、偏遠射、但不是追求極致遠射的遠射筒<br>
跟TT聊過後，意外的「它」就這麼被提起了!!!<br>
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考量了價位便宜可放心隨便操，且構造簡單、我非常瞭解&好修，就再次入手了!!!!!{:4_98:} <br>
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一不小心陷入無盡回憶，廢話太多了!!<br>
這就來上正題吧~;P <br>
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衝台北參加FF36時就順道跑去門市取貨了;P <br>
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比起以前的90s，筒身多了PSK雷雕字樣呢~<br>
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我這把是較少見的、筒尾多車了可能是戰術環(聽筒友說的，小幫手也不知道)專用的螺紋，但其實廠家也沒出戰術環這東東{:4_89:} <br>
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是單O圈的<br>
話說我以前那把O圈是紅色的呢~(有點對錯焦了，可惡)<br>
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與夏日排隊三法寶之二合影:lol <br>
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坐上回程車前在北車大廳隨手拍~{:4_88:} <br>
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[b][size=5]再來...[/size][/b]又是我極緻人品的爆發<br><br>
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雖然照程序，美麗的小幫手~瑜姊有現場測試筒確認無問題，才讓我把筒帶走<br>
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但...人生就是有這But<br>
回到家後，隔天周一上班<br>
我習慣電筒上工前會開Turbo一路到筒身50℃，測試升溫時間、以及穩定度<br>
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結果!點亮到了第二分鐘!!!!<br>
亮度瞬間盪超低<br>
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心裡瞬間閃過...該不會.......燈珠脫焊:funk: <br>
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本還想說懶惰拆筒重新塗散熱膏的.....看來不動手不行了:P <br>
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電路輸出電壓飆升，看來燈珠脫焊穩穩的了...<br>
燈珠通過電流過小、電路視為無輸出導致輸出電壓幾乎等同空載開路電壓<br>
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Turbo這亮度.....唉~<br>
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燈珠接觸超差，有時通有時不通，這時電表一量根本開路<br>
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就算不情願也要動工了啦.....:$ <br>
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雖然早已瞭解，但這散熱膏依舊塗的很不夠意思呢...:L <br>
(且基板固定還是靠點膠的，害我還用刻磨機裝紗布頭磨掉)<br>
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開爐煮燈珠啦!!;P<br>
先來確認燈珠是否還活著 <br>
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照片也許拍的不是很清楚<br>
正極焊錫過多、中間導熱區焊錫量適中~略為偏少、負極幾乎無焊錫，難怪開Turbo、大電流跑久負極就斷開<br>
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燈珠再焊接成功，會亮啦~:victory: :victory: <br>
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這回嘗試了之前網購順路買來測試TG1散熱膏，導熱係數比我愛用的MX4還好上許多，但塗佈起來黏上許多<br>
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焊上線<br>
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完工~<br>
ST90s滿血復活!!!;P ;P <br>
Turbo點亮20分鐘測試無問題(有用風扇加強筒身散熱)<br>
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其實焊燈珠途中本還懶惰，只有焊錫量過少的負極補一些錫膏就上爐煮了<br>
結果...焊完通電才10秒又脫焊<br>
正極和導熱區的舊錫，我是猜要嘛焊劑都揮發掉了，不然就是焊錫品質太差，當然二次焊就黏不上去了<br>
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用吸錫線+電子接點清除劑把基板清個乾淨，重新上錫膏，就一次成功了!!!<br>
(偷懶不成導致工耗更多的慘痛下場{:4_96:} )<br>
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[b][size=5]再[/size][/b]來就是二次動工的部分了<br>
才完工一天...(還真是浪費了那些散熱膏呢)<br>
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其實也是最初就想好了，原廠ST90s是配冷白燈珠(我目視猜6500K~7000K的?)<br>
我不喜歡這光色、太藍了，也剛好手頭上有5000K的燈珠<br><br><br>
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上了喔!!!<br>
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啊...首先就遇到問題了:Q <br>
原裝的是XM-L2燈珠，尺寸5050<br>
新燈珠XP-L HI ，尺寸3535<br>
基板勢必要換了ˊ<br>
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但.....原裝鋁基板較厚呢，2mm呢<br>
(這塊是我5年前那把拆下來的，當初那把後期改去果凍XHP50)<br>
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新的熱電分離銅基板是1.5mm的<br>
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怎麼辦呢??差0.5mm呢~<br>
只好去沒屋頂訂了1mm紅銅片<br>
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畫好基板尺寸<br>
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新買沒多久的刻磨機首次上工啦~;P <br>
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磨好啦~<br>
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再來又是定番，煮燈珠啦~<br>
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完工~<br>
確認燈珠導通正常!!<br>
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塗上散熱膏<br>
(散熱膏其實不用多，只需要薄博一層即可，太多反而會影響導熱，照片中是還未塗抹均勻)<br>
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再來換基板要上了<br>
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焊上線<br>
(本來還很擔心原裝線不夠長的，雖然拆電路換線是簡單...但懶~哈哈哈)<br>
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這裡我來解釋下好了<br>
為啥明明基板厚度只差了0.5mm，而我卻要用1mm紅銅片去墊高<br>
這是因為我有注意到原裝基板其實也不夠厚，基板上方的定位片雖能讓基板置中，但較難壓迫到基板、讓基板緊貼筒頭達到最佳散熱效果，故基板上用來固定基板的膠，我在猜是否也有涉入相關<br>
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所以我有多抓一些厚度來讓定位片有足夠的壓迫力道<br>
其實觀察我舊XM-L2基板那片，燈珠兩旁我就有貼四層(好用的)錫爐膠帶來讓定位片能壓迫到基板<br>
新的基板因為紅銅片已經有讓它「長高」了，所以錫爐膠帶我(測試多次)只有貼薄薄一層即達到最佳壓迫效果<br>
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這張照片拍得比較早(還貼三層測試中)<br>
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蓋上定位片...啊，因為基板縮小了、正負極焊點靠近，定位片上的小孔位置卡到了<br>
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刻磨機又小小活躍了幾分鐘後....<br>
完美!!!:lol <br>
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以下照度計距離筒頭均為1.2米整(固定位置就是...剛好這樣，1米有點困難，哈哈)<br>
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這是我測試的環境照度(41 LUX)<br>
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原裝XM-L2冷白燈珠的照度(29200 LUX)<br>
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改裝後的XP-L HI 5000K色溫 (57500 LUX)<br>
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唉呀...燈珠發光體縮小，照度會上升說實在是有預料到<br>
只是沒想到會提升這麼多，目視光束明顯收束、光斑變明顯集中、中心光斑縮小<br>
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再來...夜射<br>
可惜的是這裡的90s還是改裝前的XM-L2燈珠版本，所以改裝後的夜射就沒拍到了<br>
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環境...139線的某個漂亮賞夜景路邊<br>
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左90s，右 阿米XHP35 HI 黃光梭魚<br>
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提升點ISO來拍<br>
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整個被打假的欺負筒(人)...;P <br>
左90s，右 BLF GT(XHP35 HI 暖色 最大射程2KM)<br>
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提升點ISO來拍<br>
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最後是新入手的插花組<br>
火狐5(高檔100W，官方標稱射程也是2KM)<br>
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話說火5的夜射真的很難拍...泛光太過強大導致威猛的遠射光束很難拍清楚<br>
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左火狐5(高檔100W，官方標稱射程也是2KM)<br>
右 BLF GT(XHP35 HI 暖色 最大射程2KM)<br>
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目視GT射程有強上那麼一點點(是以照射遠處定點物的清晰度來比較、判別)<br>
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[b][size=5]最終感想....[/size][/b]<br>
改造版ST90s目前已經跟我上班一周了，使用上非常完美<br>
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工作用的筒要求啥?檔位簡單、操作迅速，隨便到處丟(誤;P )，別無他求了<br>
平時上班口袋都塞暖色阿米partner c2 pro，近距離修控制箱、到處維修、簡單巡廠非常合適，但要巡工廠屋頂的天車就顯得遠射不太夠力....<br>
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這下一遠一近的搭配，非常滿意<br>
且90s的價位也便宜，也可以放心操下去不心疼<br>
要是被幹走也好認，這天底下改成一模一樣的筒我想沒幾把吧;P <br>
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話說也許有人會疑惑，為啥不要買XM-L2 5000K燈珠來改就省事太多了??<br>
因為.....久違的又手癢了{:4_89:} <br>
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感謝各位的觀賞，文章就到這裡啦!!! 我對於能改造電筒的人...
一向充滿著敬意！
厲害...:) 我能說什麼~有動手能力的人就是強!!厲害!!{:4_94:} 專業工具，樓主有考慮客製化接單嗎? 我覺得我的tk51需要搶救。 感謝分享。除了施工分享外，遇到的問題也都有分享(這就是一些手路跟眉角)。另外，DIY最有趣的就是各種改法背後的想法了！
對了，工具檯上的北極星瓦斯燈也很正。 XHP50.2 應該也不錯~
而且基板不需要動!!
我原來就是改XHP50，但有十字
加上聚光效果應該不佳...
但短程加上流明數直推，其實也不錯~~ [b] [url=http://www.wii.tw/~fogerdis/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=344667&ptid=62131]2#[/url] [i]威士忌[/i] [/b]
[b] [url=http://www.wii.tw/~fogerdis/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=344671&ptid=62131]3#[/url] [i]leo54088[/i] [/b]
[b] [url=http://www.wii.tw/~fogerdis/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=344673&ptid=62131]5#[/url] [i]Snova[/i] [/b]
獻醜了，非常感謝觀賞
北極星瓦斯燈只有點十分鐘左右…太熱了，哈哈
夏天點燃料燈真讓人煎熬;P [b] [url=http://www.wii.tw/~fogerdis/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=344672&ptid=62131]4#[/url] [i]若干風[/i] [/b]
品牌筒…動手起來略有壓力
也怕外觀搞傷就不好了
抱歉囉∼ [i=s] 本帖最後由 yy3070330703 於 2020-9-22 02:10 編輯 [/i]
[b] [url=http://www.wii.tw/~fogerdis/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=344675&ptid=62131]6#[/url] [i]achihemi[/i] [/b]
XHP50.2的話…6V系列的可嘗試看看，輸出提升應該明顯，但射程勢必會下降些
3V系列的……電流輸出受限於電路，除非改電路，不然整體輸出提升應該不多
我最初那把90s也是改一代的XHP50，發熱很迅速呢:lol
話說最新的XM-L3應也有嘗試的價值，雖也會受限於電路的輸出電流就是 [quote] 6# achihemi
XHP50.2的話…6V系列的可嘗試看看，輸出提升應該明顯，但射程勢必會下降些
3V系列的……電流輸出受限於電路，除非改電路，不然整體輸出提升應該不多
我最初那把90s也是改一代的XHP50，發熱很迅 ...
[size=2][color=#999999]yy3070330703 發表於 2020-9-22 02:09[/color] [url=http://www.wii.tw/~fogerdis/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=344679&ptid=62131][img]http://www.wii.tw/~fogerdis/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url][/size][/quote]
長官以上的談話、雖然寫的是中文...
但我一個字都看不懂！
我如果能懂......會比林志玲向我求婚的機會還小...
哀...:Q
果然是高手在人間....:)
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